Perfume Maker's Club
Newsletter Articles
From Past Newsletters
Available To Club Members Only

Filling Houses — The Last Stop in putting your fragrance together —
If you are producing 500 or more bottles of perfume or cologne and you do not want to be involved in a "hands on" manufacturing, your solution is to turn to a professional contract packaging organization — a filling house — that will do the work for you. They can give you tips on producing your job and, in some cases, even suggest qualified vendors to you, vendors who they have worked... Join to read more

How to develop a new perfume in four hours or less —
In four hours we developed a new fragrance and manufactured enough of it to do a small production run. But now we had to be ruled by patience. We — or rather our compound — needed a week to blend before we added alcohol. And, once it was in the alcohol, it needed another... Join to read more

Scent and Chemistry: The Molecular World of Odors —
Published by Wiley-VCH, authors Gunther Ohloff (who died in 2005), Wilhelm Pickenhagen, and Philip Kraft detail "the molecular basis for olfaction, characterization of perfumery materials, structure-odor relationships" and more. What makes the book particularly interesting to people involved in the chemistry of perfume is the perfume history traced in this book through the evolution of the aroma chemistry... Join to read more

Could Patchouli become your trademark? —
Suppose you created and marketed a fragrance heavy in patchouli oil and your fragrance fell into the hands of celebrities whose use of it made your patchouli overdose a "trademark" of your work to the point where you developed a line of patchouli overdosed perfumes. Suppose, instead of being a perfumer, you were a shoemaker and used Chinese Red — Pantone No. 18-1663 TP — to color... Join to read more

The Nakash Brothers —
There's an old adage in advertising that you sell the sizzle, not the steak. In the case of Jordache's first ads, the appeal was basic. Show a girl with a butt-hugging pair of Jordache jeans being swept away... Join to read more

Can QR Codes help you sell perfume? —
As a final note, in June of 2011, it is estimated that 14 million mobile device users in the U.S. — 6 percent of all users — scanned a QR code. While newspapers and magazines were the most scanned media, PACKAGING came in second at 35.3%. You might consider that when you package your new perfume. A QR code on... Join to read more

Trademark Protection — Going A Step Too Far? —
When resistance was encountered, the Chanel people shifted ground and offered to pay for a refiling — with changes designated by them. When this offer was refused, a "threat to oppose" was filed. When Foluke resisted again... Join to read more

Making smart decisions about controversial chemicals —
There are cases where there is no practical substitute for a particular ingredient that consumers don't like. What do you do then? The first step is to assess the scientific data behind the claims that an ingredients is really dangerous. If it is, it may have to come out of the formula. But what if the ingredient is important to the formula and the risk factor is based... Join to read more

Notes —
The Estee Lauder story is one of incredible success against more odds than she ever acknowledged. She grew up... Join to read more

An abbreviated history of the origins of the Ralph Lauren fragrance business —
Ruttenberg and Friedman had worked together at Lauder but Ruttenberg had left Lauder for Revlon where he managed the "Charlie" fragrance business. The ducks were beginning to line up... Join to read more

Trademark Protection — why it exists and why disputes are NOT uncommon —
Now ask yourself these questions: (1) Why does Ralph Lauren object to the U.S. Polo Association licensing a polo player logo somewhat similar to his own, and (2) why does the U.S. Polo Association WANT to license its logo for use on goods similar to what Ralph Lauren sells? The entire 60-page decision of Judge Sweet in the Polo fragrance case is available to Club members... Join to read more

The dangers of cause marketing —
There's a new fragrance on the market called "Promise Me." It was developed by TPR Holdings and is being marketed by TPR Holdings and the non-profit Susan G. Komen for the Cure foundation. The fragrance itself was created by Jean Claude Delville of Drom Fragrances. TPR has pledged $1 million to the Komen foundation for the right to market the fragrance using their endorsements and pink ribbon trademark. The fragrance sells for $59. ... a director of the non-profit Breast Cancer Action had the fragrance "tested." The results were broadcast by a CBS News show... Join to read more

Notes —
** The October, 2011, issue of Happi magazine has an excellent directory — actually several directories — of contract manufacturers and private label sources, both U.S. and international. This directory is a very useful resources for fragrance and cosmetics development and packaging and, in addition ... Join to read more

Reconnecting Perfume With Nature —
When you read a review of almost any new fragrance, be it mass or class, you will almost certainly find the notes described in images taken from nature, even though the ingredients are likely to be 100 percent synthetic, and even when the smells being described have no known way of being harvested from nature and turned into ... Join to read more

Going Back In Time — Clove —
Before there were the giant and not so giant corporations of today there were partnerships. Partnerships were a serious institution as the partners were financially liable for the business. If there were debts, the partners were personally responsible to see that they were paid. The credit of the business was dependent on the good reputation of the partners. Now imagine a partnership of just two individuals ... Join to read more

Bottles, Bottle Design, and Custom Bottles —
Bottles are important. It has been pointed out that women who would never WEAR an Avon fragrance are avid BUYERS of Avon fragrances because they want the bottles. Developing a new fragrance is a global exercise. Name, theme, fragrance, bottle and package must all go together to achieve maximum impact and sales. For the marketer seeking to launch a line of fragrances under the same brand, the selection of a bottle ... Join to read more

The changing world of celebrity fragrances —
Just as network television is losing its grip on audiences, so too are the established marketers of celebrity fragrances. Parlux and Elizabeth Arden, because of their need for expensive celebrity deals to sell perfume, are particularly vulnerable to an emerging trend — market-savvy celebrity managers who can cut deals to get distribution ... Join to read more

Brazil — The World's Top Market for Fragrance —
US = $5.3 billion — Brazil = $6 billion. And the amazing growth has been with mass market brands. Natura and O'Boticario together account for a 60% market share. And so far only 61% of the Brazilian population wears perfume. But the problem for these companies is the appreciation ... Join to read more

Natural, Organic, Sustainable plus social development? —
When you read about Natura, a Brazilian fragrance and cosmetics company, you marvel at the founder's idealism. Corporate goals to use more recycled or sustainable materials, reduced energy consumption, employ as many natural materials as possible, source your materials from Amazonian Indian tribes, and run an educational assistance program for young ... Join to read more

Standing Out in The Crowd ... is only part of the story —
Aniko Hill has an article in the September 2011 issue of GCI, "Standing Out In The Crowd," in which she explores packaging concepts. One of the points she makes is that "The Boldest Design Isn't Necessarily the Strongest." This thought came to mind when I read about the new Italian fragrance company, Blood Concept ... Join to read more

Is RiRi in trouble? —
It's rare when any company announces that sales of a particular fragrance are down but Parlux recently broke the pattern by telling the world that sales of Rihanna's "Reb'l Fleur" had dropped just six months into ... Join to read more

The risky business of launching a celebrity fragrance —
A 1994 college textbook notes that while at one time perfumers gave the world "a whole galaxy of classic perfumes," today fragrances are mostly sold through their association with top stars of "entertainment, sports and fashion." The authors suggest customers "... are no longer buying a scent but rather an escape ... Join to read more

Celebrity Fragrance: Usher vs. Jay-Z ... Justin Bieber vs. Rihanna —
When I gradually became aware that Justin Bieber had launched his first perfume (June, 2011, "Someday") following the success of his nail polish in January, 2011, what caught my eye was not that he had done it but that the fragrance was being produced and marketed not by a leading celebrity fragrance marketer ... Join to read more

Is this a formula for a natural perfume? —
20 Cascarilla oil, 30 Cinnamon leaf oil, 100 Vanilla extract, 10 per cent, 15 Coumarin, 5 Rose otto, 10 Santalwood oil, 70 Brandy ... Join to read more

Web banner click ejects scent sample —
"Imagine being able to click on a web banner ad for a fragrance and, immediately, a scent sample of that fragrance is ejected from your computer. Fantasy? Futuristic? In fact it has already happened. In Brazil. In a promotion for a Brazilian men's cologne, "Kaiak." Pretty cool? The setup goes like this ... " Join to read more

The question is often asked, "How do you make perfume?" —
"A wonderfully clear answer to this question is given by Stephen J. Herman in Chapter 13 of "Chemistry & Technology of Flavors & Fragrances" (David J. Ross, ed., Wiley-Blackwell) — "To make a perfume, the fragrance oil is added into a solution of alcohol and water." Simple. But what is a "fragrance oil"? And, as Herman quickly points out, a commercial alcohol — an alcohol used in perfumery — is not a single ingredient but commonly a mixture of alcohol, water, and a "denaturant." The alcohol is commonly ... " Join to read more

Elizabeth Taylor's Perfume Legacy —
"Elizabeth Taylor passed away on March 23rd at the age of 79. It had been decades since she had appeared in a major film. Moreover, from her first year in Hollywood (at age 9) up until 1961 (at age 39), Taylor was under contract to the studios, first Universal (which fired her after one year) and then MGM which held her for 18 years. All of her best known films were made during these years when her earnings and the ability to direct her own career were constrained by her studio contracts. Yet she ... " Join to read more

Brands, Direct Selling & Perfume —
"In shopping, all things being equal, we gravitate toward brands — names we know. These may be national or even international brands. They may even be "private label" house brands, now so common among all major retailers. Step into Walmart and they are pushing their "George" line of clothing ahead of the few national brands they carry. Visit a Canadian Tire and the tools are "Mastercraft" (or "Craftsman" at Sears, or "Canada King" at Home Hardware, or "Kobalt" at Lowes). Target sells its "Archer Farm" line of gourmet foods and I've been pleased with their coffee beans. Yet when it comes to perfume and cosmetics, big retailers continue to offer the heavily advertised international brands, brands that fill out the pages of every fashion magazine. They aren't going to take your perfume. ** An alternative way to reach the consumer ... " Join to read more